Geoffrey,
The '69 - where to start... this note may get
kind of long, with some details. If after reading it you have not been
scared off, I can provide even more details. I prefer to paint an accurate
picture, rather than gloss over things - the last thing I would want is
for a guy to actually come look at the '69 and claim I had misrepresented
it.
It will need everything, including some windshield
frame repair for rust. I guess this is not uncommon on Shark convertibles
no matter what environment they were in (leaky roofs, badly designed drainage,
etc.). I even went so
far as to talk to Nabors Brothers about this and they say they do it all
the time.
The car was sold in LA (at Harry Mann - which
tends to make it more desirable) and driven there until the early 70's.
Then the guy moved back to New York state, which is where the car sat in
the weather. It did sit out, but he told me it was not driven in the winters,
so I think the frame does NOT have salt damage, but it does have surface
exposure rust from sitting out. Actually, I am pretty sure he never drove
the car again after 1976 because he told me he stopped driving it in '76
for two reasons - expensive low octane gas, and it needed brake work. Well,
it appears he
started the brake work and never finished - a rear caliper is missing from
the car, so he could not have driven it.
Anyway, the crucial frame area in front of the
rear wheels has surface rust, but not cancer, if you know what I mean.
However, the entire car has surface rust on metal areas b/c it sat out.
Bottom line is that when you do a car, you pretty
much repair or replace everything anyway. You would not need to replace
the frame, but you would need to have the windshield frame repaired (cut
out and weld in some new
sections).
The engine rebuild should be cake.
The trans should be gone through by an expert on automatics.
Same for the rear-end.
Brake and fuel systems would have to be new.
Soft top frame needs resto and a new top.
The hard top is almost perfect - it is the item that sat in his garage
- it is a vinyl covered hard top.
The dash and door panels actually look quite good - you might be able to
use them.
Body needs lots of prep work before paint and probably a new left rear
quarter (someone did a poor repair there).
The intake and carbs should go out for restoration.
The spare tire is the original and looks brand new.
Honestly, when I talked to Nabors, they said they
have done lots of cars just like it and it probably needs 20K in parts
and 20K in labor (this was probably two years ago). I think most full restos
all end up costing about the same price b/c you end up repairing and/or
replacing everything anyway.
I think it would require 40K minimum to have it
restored.
In the end you would have a pretty desirable car
- a red convertible L89 automatic with deluxe interior, PW, PS, PB, speed
warning indicator, F41 suspension, 3.36 posi - every option except sidepipes
- he ordered sidepipes but the car was built before they had them in production.
The block stamp pad - the block was decked during
a dealer warranty repair about 1970 - all that I could read on the pad
was the "W" of the rare LW suffix (auto, L89). I did the acid
treatment to "raise" the numbers, and was able to eventually
see about 3/4 of all the pad characters. I have some photo evidence of
the process, but it was hard to see with bare eyes and the photos are even
harder to see. Bottom line - I wrote down what I saw, and the stamp pad
will need "restoration" - new broach marks and restamp. There
was lots of discussion about me doing the acid process on the Discussion
Board a year or two ago when I did it (you could probably search the early
archives and find some of those threads - key word acid or pad etc.). Roy
knows that I did it, and the results. I even consulted him about whether
I
should restore the pad or leave it like it is.
There is no doubt in my mind that it is the original
block, and I have a signed, notarized letter from the original owner stating
that, and attesting to the dealer repair in 1970 (I have lots of interesting
info about that too). I planned on having the pad restored with the exact
characters recovered during the acid treatment.
I can give you lots more detail if I haven't scared
you off - I don't want to misrepresent it - it is a HUGE, expensive project
- probably only for the guy who knows what the end-state can be and who
appreciates the desirability and rarity of the car. It is NOT a money-making
car - you would have more in it than you could probably sell it for. You
would have to want to own the car to justify taking it on.
The '68:
Right now I am stainless sleeving the original
calipers - the car sat so much there are a few things it needs - it has
low miles and has simply been stored most of it's life. I am having the
original calipers sleeved, but not cosmetically restored, by an expert.
I ironed out a timing issue on the car and it times well now, but it still
has a bit of a "miss" which will need to be ironed out. The carbs
could use kits (but I would not have them restored or refinished). I honestly
think it has sat too much and needs some TLC.
I suggested that the price for the two cars would
be 75K - that is based on;
60K for the '68 (less than I have in it)
15K for the '69 (I paid 20K - yes, I probably paid a bit much for it).
Anyway, at 75 for both, I am out more than 10K...
The way I look at it - the TWO cars could make
a really great pair in a collection, because, how cool would it be to have
two red convertible L89's, - one a 4 speed with a black soft top, and the
other an automatic with a
white soft top? Pretty cool...
Here are a few pics of the '69. Let me know if
you would like to hear more...
I may eventually get around to joining VetteHeads,
now that I am home again after a 6 month work relocation assignment.
EO
Geoffrey,
The '69 has not run since about 1976. I never
drove it when I got it. I knew how big a job it was going to be, going
in. I did pay too much. I had a grand plan to do the restoration myself,
and now may not take it on - I am older, wiser, and my back hurts more
often these days. Will most likely try to sell it. Hope I don't have to
"sell it for parts" (that is also too much work listing things
etc.). I started some disassembly - I pulled the engine and disassembled
it - that is why I know the rebuild will be straightforward. I started
a slight bit of interior disassembly. I restored all 5 of the original
rally wheels (sandblasted, primed, painted). That is about it as far as
disassembly. To register it? Well, that would
probably take almost as much as restoration - body needs to come off frame,
major mechanical rebuild of components, etc.
When I got the '68 from Roy I thought it would
be perfect and need nothing. The problem with a car like that is even if
it is just sitting (or maybe especially if it is sitting) some items deteriorate
and need attention. Evidently Roy has enough cars that he did not mind
that the '68 just sat. When I first drove it it ran pretty badly. Thus
my looking into timing it
and tuning it up. I don't want a car if it does not run right. Anyway,
I have started down the road of getting it back into top running condition.
Hopefully it won't need much. The reason I am doing the brakes is this
- I got on it pretty hard once, and had to put on the brakes pretty hard,
and felt the seal go. Age, the high braking pressure, etc. So I am doing
the brakes.
I will be honest - I have more cars than space,
and I am contemplating an addition on my house, so I will pursue selling
both L89's. I may consign them with a dealer even.
If you have any interest in both, I would do the
best deal with you I could short of losing my total investment. I already
have it in my head that I will be taking some loss to sell them both.
Here are the options on the '68;
· Rally Red
· Leather Black Trim
· Power Windows
· Aluminum Cylinder Heads
· Power Brakes
· AM/FM Stereo Radio
· Tinted Glass
· Deluxe Shoulder Belts
· Telescopic Steering
· Speed Warning Indicator
· Transistor Ignition
· Special Offroad Exhaust
· Special Performance Suspension
· Auxiliary Hardtop
· Power steering
· Positract Rear Axle 3.70:1
· 435HP Engine
· 4 Speed Close Ratio Transmission
Here are the options on the '69;
· Rally Red
· Leather Black Trim
· Power Windows
· Aluminum Cylinder Heads
· Power Brakes
· AM/FM Stereo Radio
· Tinted Glass
· Deluxe Shoulder Belts
· Speed Warning Indicator
· Transistor Ignition
· Special Offroad Exhaust (sidepipes were ordered but weren't in
production - the original exhaust system is gone - will need complete setup)
· Special Performance Suspension
· Auxiliary Hardtop (vinyl covered hardtop - original owner bought
this top a year or two after he got the car - not dated to the car - perfect
condition)
· Power steering
· Positract Rear Axle 3.36:1
· 435HP Engine
· TH400 Automatic Transmission (automatics with this engine were
high performance - high RPM shift points and high stall speed special torque
converter
I will be inquiring with a dealer this week about
selling/trading/consigning both cars. Please let me know if you still have
interest.
Attached are two photos of the '68 - one is from
a calendar it was featured in, the other is while it was on display for
a year in the Corvette Museum in Bowling Green.
EO